Glycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugar cane — and it is one of the most extensively researched chemical exfoliants in clinical skincare. It has the smallest molecular size of all AHAs, which allows it to penetrate the skin more effectively than other acids, delivering potent exfoliation, collagen stimulation and brightening benefits that make it a staple in both professional and home skincare routines.
What Is Glycolic Acid and How Does It Work?
Glycolic acid works by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells on the skin's surface — a process called corneodesmolysis. By dissolving these bonds, it accelerates the natural shedding of dead skin cells that would otherwise accumulate on the surface, causing dullness, rough texture, congestion and uneven tone. As dead cells are shed more efficiently, the fresher, newer cells beneath are revealed, producing the characteristic brightening and smoothing effect that makes glycolic acid so popular.
At higher concentrations and with regular use, glycolic acid also penetrates deeper into the skin to stimulate fibroblast activity and new collagen production — contributing to anti-ageing effects on skin texture, fine lines and firmness that go beyond simple surface exfoliation.
What Does Glycolic Acid Treat?
The range of skin concerns that respond well to glycolic acid is impressively broad. For dull, lacklustre skin, glycolic acid delivers almost immediate brightening by removing the layer of dead cells that dulls the complexion. For rough or uneven texture, regular use progressively smooths and refines the skin surface. For hyperpigmentation and dark spots, glycolic acid accelerates the shedding of pigmented surface cells while stimulating cell turnover to reveal more even-toned skin beneath. For fine lines and early ageing, its collagen-stimulating properties contribute to progressive textural improvement with consistent long-term use. For acne-prone skin, glycolic acid exfoliates inside the pore opening, reducing the congestion that leads to blackheads and breakouts.
Glycolic Acid at Home vs Professional Peels
Glycolic acid is available in two main contexts: leave-on home-use products at lower concentrations (typically 5% to 15%) and professional chemical peels at higher concentrations (20% to 70% and above). Home products are designed for regular use — typically two to three times per week — and deliver progressive improvement with consistent use. Professional glycolic peels deliver more intensive results in a single session and are typically combined with a series of treatments for optimal outcomes.
Both have their place in a comprehensive skincare programme — professional peels for accelerated correction, home use products for maintenance and progressive ongoing improvement between treatments.
The Best Glycolic Acid Products at Esthe Clinic
SkinCeuticals Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight
Our most recommended home glycolic acid treatment. A leave-on 10% glycolic acid cream applied in the evening after cleansing and left on overnight. The 10% concentration is effective enough to deliver meaningful exfoliation and brightening without the irritation risk of higher concentrations, and the cream formulation provides simultaneous moisturisation that reduces the drying effect sometimes associated with AHA use. Clinical studies show improvements in skin radiance, texture and fine lines with consistent use. Apply two to three evenings per week, alternating with retinol rather than using both on the same night.
ZO Skin Health Exfoliation Accelerator
Combines glycolic acid with lactic acid in a formula that provides dual-action chemical exfoliation with calming and soothing benefits. A good choice for those who find pure glycolic acid slightly irritating, or for those with combination skin that benefits from the broader exfoliation profile of multiple AHAs.
ZO Skin Health Complexion Renewal Pads
Pre-soaked exfoliating pads with glycolic and salicylic acid that provide convenient twice-weekly chemical exfoliation with a dual-action approach targeting both surface cell turnover and pore congestion. The pre-soaked format ensures consistent acid contact across the skin surface without the uneven application that can occur with liquid formulas.
How to Introduce Glycolic Acid Into Your Routine
If you are new to chemical exfoliation, introduce glycolic acid slowly — start with one application per week and build up to two or three times per week over four to six weeks as your skin adapts. Apply only at night — glycolic acid increases photosensitivity, and daily SPF is essential if you are using any AHA. Never apply glycolic acid on the same night as retinol — use them on alternating nights. After applying a leave-on glycolic acid product, allow it to absorb fully before applying any other products.
Who Should Avoid Glycolic Acid?
People with active rosacea, very reactive or broken skin, or current sunburn should avoid glycolic acid. If you are using prescription retinoids or other intensive prescription treatments, check with your healthcare provider before adding glycolic acid to your routine. Glycolic acid is generally not recommended during pregnancy — consult your doctor if you are pregnant or breastfeeding.
Browse our full range of clinical exfoliators at Esthe Clinic or book a consultation to find the right exfoliation approach for your skin type and concerns.