Oily skin is one of the most common skin types and one of the most mismanaged. The natural instinct is to strip the skin of oil as aggressively as possible — using harsh cleansers, alcohol-based toners and matte-everything products. But this approach typically makes oily skin worse rather than better, by triggering a rebound increase in sebum production to compensate for the stripped barrier. Here is the clinical approach to managing oily skin effectively.
What Causes Oily Skin?
Sebum is produced by sebaceous glands attached to hair follicles throughout the face and body. In oily skin types, these glands are larger and more numerous — particularly on the nose, forehead and chin (the T-zone) — and produce sebum at a higher rate than normal. This is largely genetic but several factors influence the degree of oiliness: hormones (particularly androgens, which directly stimulate sebaceous gland activity), diet (high glycaemic index foods and dairy may worsen sebum production in susceptible individuals), humidity and temperature, stress (which stimulates androgen production), and — crucially — your skincare routine.
Over-cleansing and using harsh, stripping products disrupts the skin barrier and triggers a compensatory increase in sebum production as the skin attempts to restore its natural lipid balance. This is the sebum rebound cycle that many people with oily skin unknowingly perpetuate through their skincare choices.
The Five Clinical Principles for Managing Oily Skin
1. Choose a Cleanser That Cleans Without Stripping
Your cleanser should remove excess oil and impurities without completely stripping the skin's natural sebum. Bioderma Sebium Foaming Gel is formulated specifically for oily and acne-prone skin — its fluidactiv complex targets the bacteria that transform sebum into acne-triggering irritants, while the gentle formula avoids the over-drying that triggers rebound oil production. ZO Skin Health Exfoliating Cleanser provides dual-action cleansing and gentle exfoliation for oily skin types. Cleanse twice daily — no more. Over-cleansing is a major driver of rebound oiliness.
2. Never Skip Moisturiser
Dehydrated skin produces more oil — this is the most important principle many people with oily skin do not know. Apply a lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturiser morning and evening without fail. SkinCeuticals Daily Moisture and Bioderma Sebium Sensitive are both formulated specifically for oily skin to provide necessary hydration without adding oil or blocking pores. A properly moisturised skin barrier does not need to compensate with excess sebum production.
3. Use a Chemical Exfoliant 2-3 Times Per Week
Chemical exfoliants — particularly salicylic acid (BHA) and glycolic acid (AHA) — are the most effective topical tools for managing oily skin. Salicylic acid is oil-soluble and penetrates into pores to dissolve the sebum and dead cell mixture that causes congestion, blackheads and enlarged pore appearance. ZO Skin Health Oil Control Pads, Complexion Renewal Pads and the Bioderma Sebium Lotion all incorporate targeted acids for oily skin management. Use two to three times per week on alternating evenings with retinol.
4. Consider a Sebum-Regulating Serum
ZO Skin Health Complexion Clarifying Serum is a water-based serum clinically proven to reduce surface oil, visible redness and congestion without drying or irritating the skin. Apply after toning and before moisturiser. ZO Skin Health Instant Pore Refiner provides immediate pore-minimising and shine-control benefits as a treatment step. Both address oiliness at a targeted level beyond what cleansing and exfoliation achieve.
5. Always Use SPF
Oily skin types often avoid SPF because they find it greasy or pore-blocking. But UV damage weakens the skin barrier and worsens sebum oxidation — both of which exacerbate oily skin problems over time. ZO Skin Health Daily Sheer Broad Spectrum SPF 50 and SkinCeuticals Oil Shield UV Defense SPF 50 are both non-comedogenic, mattifying formulas specifically designed for oily and blemish-prone skin. Neither should feel greasy if applied correctly to properly cleansed and moisturised skin.
The Oily Skin Routine
Morning: Bioderma Sebium Foaming Gel or ZO Skin Health Exfoliating Cleanser → Bioderma Sebium Lotion → ZO Skin Health Complexion Clarifying Serum → Bioderma Sebium Sensitive or SkinCeuticals Daily Moisture → ZO Skin Health Daily Sheer SPF 50 or SkinCeuticals Oil Shield UV Defense SPF 50
Evening: Bioderma Sebium H2O to remove SPF and makeup → Cleanser → ZO Skin Health Oil Control Pads or Complexion Renewal Pads (2-3 nights per week) OR ZO Skin Health Retinol + Acne Complex (alternate nights) → Bioderma Sebium Sensitive
Does Diet Affect Oily Skin?
The evidence for a dietary link to oily skin and acne is growing. High glycaemic index foods — white bread, sugar, processed carbohydrates — stimulate insulin-like growth factor (IGF-1), which directly stimulates sebaceous gland activity and increases sebum production. Dairy consumption, particularly skimmed milk, has also been associated with increased acne severity in clinical studies, possibly through its effect on IGF-1 signalling. Reducing high-GI foods and experimenting with dairy reduction is worth considering alongside a clinical skincare routine if oiliness is a persistent concern.
Browse our oily and acne-prone skin range at Esthe Clinic or book a consultation for a personalised oily skin management routine.