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Microneedling: What It Is, What It Does and What to Expect

Professional skin treatment consultation at a skin clinic

Microneedling — also called collagen induction therapy — is one of the most evidence-backed professional skin treatments available. It stimulates the skin's natural wound-healing response to produce new collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, delivering genuine structural improvement in skin quality over a course of treatments. At Esthe Clinic, microneedling is one of our most requested in-clinic treatments — and for good reason.

What Is Microneedling?

Microneedling involves the use of a professional device containing very fine needles that create thousands of microscopic channels in the skin. These controlled micro-injuries trigger the skin's wound-healing cascade — stimulating fibroblasts to produce new collagen and elastin and initiating a process of skin remodelling that continues for weeks after treatment.

Professional microneedling uses clinical-grade devices with precise needle depth control, allowing the treatment to be customised to different areas of the face and different skin concerns. It is very different from at-home dermarollers, which are far less effective and carry a higher risk of damage when used incorrectly.

What Does Microneedling Treat?

Microneedling is exceptionally versatile and effective for a wide range of skin concerns. It is one of the most evidence-backed treatments for acne scarring — particularly ice pick, rolling and boxcar scars — producing significant visible improvement over a course of three to six sessions. For anti-ageing, it improves fine lines, wrinkles, skin laxity and overall skin texture by stimulating new collagen formation. It is also highly effective for large pores, uneven skin tone, hyperpigmentation, stretch marks and overall improvement in skin quality and radiance.

What Happens During a Microneedling Treatment?

A professional microneedling session begins with thorough cleansing and the application of a topical anaesthetic cream to ensure comfort during the procedure. The anaesthetic is left on for approximately 30 to 45 minutes before being removed. The microneedling device is then passed systematically across the treatment area — typically the full face, though specific areas such as the neck, décolletage or hands can also be treated.

During treatment, a medical-grade serum is applied simultaneously with the needling, allowing the active ingredients to penetrate far more deeply than topical application alone would allow. The treatment typically takes 30 to 45 minutes. Immediately after treatment, skin will appear red and flushed — similar to a moderate sunburn. This typically resolves within 24 to 48 hours.

What Results Can You Expect?

After a single session, most clients notice an immediate improvement in skin radiance and a subtle tightening effect as the treated skin begins to heal. The more significant structural improvements — in collagen density, scar reduction and skin firmness — develop gradually over 4 to 6 weeks as the new collagen matures.

For optimal results, a course of three to six treatments spaced four to six weeks apart is typically recommended. After completing a course, quarterly maintenance treatments help sustain and build on the results achieved.

Is Microneedling Suitable for All Skin Types?

Microneedling is suitable for all skin tones and most skin types, making it one of the more universally applicable professional treatments. Unlike some laser treatments, it does not carry a risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in darker skin tones when performed correctly. It is not recommended during active breakouts, with certain skin conditions such as active rosacea or psoriasis, during pregnancy, or for those taking blood-thinning medications. A thorough consultation before treatment ensures microneedling is appropriate for your individual circumstances.

Post-Treatment Skincare: What to Use After Microneedling

The 48 to 72 hours following microneedling require gentle, supportive skincare. Avoid all exfoliating acids, retinol, Vitamin C and active ingredients during this period. Focus on barrier support and hydration — SkinCeuticals Epidermal Repair is one of our most recommended post-procedure products, formulated specifically for compromised and post-treatment skin. SkinCeuticals Phyto Corrective serum with its botanical extracts is also excellent for calming treated skin.

After the initial recovery period, your skin will be in an optimal state to benefit from your active skincare routine — Vitamin C, retinol and SPF should all be resumed once the skin has healed. The micro-channels created by the treatment have enhanced the penetration of your topical skincare in the days immediately following, making this a period of particularly heightened responsiveness to actives.

Daily SPF is essential for at least one week post-treatment, and ideally indefinitely as part of your maintenance routine.

Microneedling vs Other Professional Treatments

Compared to laser skin rejuvenation, microneedling has the advantage of being safe for all skin tones with less risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It also has lower downtime than more aggressive resurfacing treatments. For comprehensive anti-ageing and scar treatment, combining microneedling with radiofrequency (RF microneedling) delivers more significant results than microneedling alone, though with more downtime.

HydraFacial is often combined with microneedling — a HydraFacial series can be used in the weeks between microneedling sessions to maintain skin health and enhance overall results.

To book a microneedling treatment at Esthe Clinic, visit estheclinic.co.uk. To build an at-home routine that supports and enhances your professional treatment results, book a skincare consultation with our team.

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